Lifestyle

Dior Homme creates the space-age businessman

PARIS (AP) — It was cosmic musing for Dior Homme's Kris Van Assche, who injected a space-age fiber into the house's DNA of fitted black suit, white shirt and black tie.

A sanitized all-white set saw elegantly suited, droid-like gentlemen file by in Saturday's fall-winter 2013 menswear show with galactic high collars, and super high buckled waists. They cut the torso in half — against a palette of lab white, luminous deep midnight blue as well as gray and black.

Though at times there was a slight feel of vintage Pierre Cardin — the collection's starting point was apparently the sci-fi movie "Gattaca," in which humans are genetically modified to be better prepared for the future.

One result of this futurist exploration was the businessman as superhero. As it happens, the other result was also one of the stronger shows the Belgian designer has done in a while. "The first silhouettes look Wall Street. But little by little you understand that they are not so classic. There is a secret about them," Van Assche told The Associated Press backstage.

A red pin stripe recurs as a futuristic cult-like symbol, a triangle within a square; shoe heels are encased in a smooth, clear plastic so they don't leave a trace; and traceless, too, are the smoothly covered zipper fastenings.

This secret Dior man will pass through time minimalist and unnoticed. In Raf Simon's recent women's wear designs for Christian Dior, waists were cinched in a reworking of the 1950s bar jacket with peplum.

Here Van Assche is adding his menswear voice to the fashion conversation, by echoing this style through delineating the waist. He raised it, military style, through a belt almost halfway down the torso; this was mirrored, beautifully, by the cult-like symbols, which bisected the waist at the exact same point.

This Dior man can indeed afford look to the future — with a collection like this, it's a bright, if sanitized, place.

Follow Thomas Adamson at http://Twitter.com/ThomasAdamsonAP

Related Headlines

  • Veronique Nichanian

    Hermes lets clothes do the talking in classy show

    Hermes has become a byword for simple, unpretentious luxury. With panache, veteran menswear designer Veronique Nichanian proved this again in a classy and masculine showing ... 

  • Givenchy makes menswear combatorial

    Gladiatorial combat is in the air for Givenchy's ever-creative Riccardo Tisci. For the fall-winter 2013 menswear show, the Italian designer delved into his rich ancestry ... 

  • Packing for Paris? Old law bans pants for women

    If it isn't already daunting enough to pack for a trip to fashionable Paris, female visitors, beware: It's illegal to wear pants. So says a law dating from 1800 that has never ... 

  • Jean Paul Gaultier

    Nautical but nice: Gaultier opens Rotterdam show

    Paris fashion's enfant terrible, Jean Paul Gaultier, has inaugurated his first international exhibit at Europe's largest port: the Dutch city of Rotterdam. The location is ... 

Find your future job here