Lifestyle

Jil Sander asserts tailored heritage

MILAN (AP) — Jil Sander is back, and it shows. Belgian designer Raf Simons, now with Dior, had livened up the minimalist label with bold colors and inventive styles. But since the company's founder took back the reins a year ago, the style has reverted to precise, disciplined tailoring, for the most part in no-nonsense colors.

Big double-breasted coats, jackets with sculpted shoulders, pleated skirts and tailored dresses, all combine to create a fashion code based on geometric shapes in the collection presented Saturday. Sander's designing discipline jibes with the winter trend of constructed, almost architectural styles, seen on many runways of the current preview showings for winter 2014.

But if the style and, sometimes even the fabric, are rigid, the effect of the latest Sander collection is more sensual than sensible, obtained by the generous pleating and draping used throughout the show.

Although the wools in the collection are soft, leather and even fur tends to be stiff. The new winter shades are berry blue and a warm shade of apricot, the designer's shift away from her traditionally drab palette.

To underline the disciplined look, models had their hair severely pulled back, and wore mannish walking shoes with a thick high heel.

Related Headlines

  • Milan designers go for structured looks

    Milan designers chose structured, architectural looks in their collections for next year. On the runways, the basic silhouette is voluminous, though cinched at the waist and ... 

  • Jil Sander back with minimalist, not austere, look

    Tall, almost Puritan collars gave gravitas to Jil Sander's first winter menswear collection since returning to the label she founded. The ample lapels made prominent in the ... 

  • Milan Fashion Week starts on somber note

    Milan Fashion Week started off on a somber note Saturday, as the design world maintained a vigil for the missing CEO of the family-run Missoni fashion house. The Italian ... 

  • Bottega Veneta enhances classics with details

    Superlatives don't work with Tomas Maier, a designer of discretion, just like his collections for Bottega Veneta. And yet one is tempted is to gush over his latest menswear ...