Silhouettes were both highlighted and dwarfed Friday, from a thin black dress with sheer cutouts to billowing coats and oversize tunics. Large tasseled safety pins were fastened to lapels or used to secure wraps and jackets. There was a touch of plaid, including a wrap dress in black, gray and white with high matching boots, along with a bit of camo, mixed at times with a white and red floral print for men in loose trousers and women in an airy dress worn over generous black pants.
There was an abundance of functional outerwear that could jump off the runway into fall and winter. Matthew Rhys and his partner, Keri Russell, were among the front row guests of the brand's founder, Marcus Wainwright. Their kids go to school together in New York. Rhys told The Associated Press he's usually not a fan of fashion shows but finds Wainwright's approach an exception.
"It combines so many mediums and makes it an event as opposed to a show,” he said. “Sometimes you forget you’re looking at the clothes and you're swept away by another experience because he's kind of hell bent on it being an incredible experience.”
Wainwright dressed the couple for the 2017 Met Gala, putting Rhys, a Welshman, in a kilt. Glen Powell, who stars in the upcoming “Top Gun: Maverick,” was also in attendance and praised his co-star Tom Cruise.
“Tom (Cruise) is the man,” he said. "It's hard to say enough nice things about him. He's, you know, he's a friend. He's a mentor. He's a cheerleader. He's the best boss I've ever had.” Powell also had only nice things to say about another co-star, Zoey Deutch. The two, who starred in the Netflix rom-com “Set It Up,” will be reuniting in the new film, “Most Dangerous Game.”
"I think we are in the final stages of figuring out the exact time that we're shooting this, and it's going to be very soon,” he said. “Getting to be back in the trenches with Zoey is gonna make me so happy. She's the greatest.”
The show, according to the company's written notes, was a celebration of the character of New York City. It was staged at Skylight on Vesey, a former stock exchange trading floor in lower Manhattan. The Fall/Winter 2020 collection remained true to the brand's DNA of American workwear, British inspired tailoring, military and sport, the notes said. The company called the collection an “effortless mix of contrasting masculine and feminine silhouettes” and the brand's signature uptown meets downtown vibe.
There were some new twists. Robe-style coats and fitted leather jackets and blazers were juxtaposed against jewel-tone slip dresses and knife pleat skirts. Deconstructed Fair Isle sweaters and structured cable knits were paired with classic menswear fabrics in outerwear and shirting. The brand relied on Japanese wool jersey separates, faux fur coats and bombers, and a reversible faux Mongolian shearling parka to elevate the mix of textures.